As the insect sentinels of summer, fireflies use their glowing bellies to communicate to other fireflies. Males from the species Abscondita terminalis use multi-pulse flashes with both of their lanterns to attract females. The females use single-pulse flashes with their one lantern. However, a new study found that some spiders may have decoded this signal and are using it to its advantage. This mimicry is detailed in a study published August 19 in the journal Current Biology.
When orb-weaving
When orb-weaving spiders (Araneus ventricosus) trap male fireflies in their webs, they manipulate the flashing signals to mimic the typical flashes made by female fireflies. These feigned flashes then lure other males into the web where they become the spider’s next meal. However, we still don’t know if the spider’s venom or a bite itself is manipulating the firefly’s signal.
The discovery arose after Xinhua Fu, a study co-author and entomologist at Huazhong Agricultural University in China observed several male fireflies entangled in orb-weaving spider webs while working in the field. He rarely saw a female firefly trapped in a web and additional field trips revealed this sexually skewed pattern. Fu hypothesized that the spiders may be somehow manipulating the fireflies’ behavior to attract others.
To test this hypothesis that the spiders are manipulating the firefly’s signal, he recruited behavioral ecologists Daiqin Li and Shichang Zhang from Hubei University. The team conducted field experiments where they observed the firefly signals and spider behavior. The observations showed that the spider’s web captured male fireflies more often when the spider was there, compared to when it was away from the web.
After further analysis, they found that the signals created by male fireflies in webs with spiders present looked more like the signals made by free flying females. The trapped males used single-pulse signals that use only one lantern and not both.
An orb-weaving spider (Araneus ventricosus) with two ensnared male fireflies (Abscondita terminalis), one of which has a luminescent lantern (right). CREDIT: Xinhua Fu.
Interestingly, the ensnared male fireflies very rarely lured other males when they were alone in the web and the spider was not around. This suggests that the males were not altering their flashes as a kind of distress signal. The team believes that the spiders are altering the firefly’s signal.
“While the eyes of orb-web spiders typically support limited spatial acuity, they rely more on temporal acuity rather than spatial acuity for discriminating flash signals,” Li said in a statement. “Upon detecting the bioluminescent signals of ensnared male fireflies, the spider deploys a specialized prey-handling procedure involving repeated wrap-bite attacks.”
According to the team, the experiment reveals that some animals are capable of using indirect yet dynamic signaling to go after a very specific category of prey in nature. The team also believes that there could be many other undescribed examples of this kind of mimicry in nature waiting to be uncovered. Predators could be using sound, pheromones, or other means, and not just visual signals to fool their prey. This deceptive ability is not exclusive to the animal kingdom either. The South African daisy appears to trick flies into mating with it and depositing pollen.
“We propose that in response to seeing the ensnared male fireflies’ bioluminescent signals, the spider deployed a specialized-prey handling procedure based on repeated wrap bite attacks,” the team wrote in the study. “We also hypothesize that the male firefly’s neurotransmitters may generate a female-like flashing pattern.”
However, additional study is needed to determine what exactly is changing in the trapped firefly’s flashing pattern.
Kristy Murray was there at the very beginning. In 1999, the epidemiologist and tropical medicine expert, now a professor of pediatrics at Emory University, was part of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) team responding to the initial U.S. outbreak of West Nile virus in New York City. “It was my very first outbreak assignment,” Murray tells Popular Science. Thirty cases of unexplained encephalitis had been reported in the city, and it was up to Murray and her colleagues to figur
Kristy Murray was there at the very beginning. In 1999, the epidemiologist and tropical medicine expert, now a professor of pediatrics at Emory University, was part of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) team responding to the initial U.S. outbreak of West Nile virus in New York City. “It was my very first outbreak assignment,” Murray tells Popular Science. Thirty cases of unexplained encephalitis had been reported in the city, and it was up to Murray and her colleagues to figure out why. The cause was initially baffling. People had symptoms of paralysis, “which is very unusual to see in encephalitis,” she explains, and older adults comprised the majority of those worst off, despite viral paralysis often being most common in children. None of the patients had any relation or apparent connection to one another.
To figure out what was happening, Murray says she and the rest of the CDC team acted as “disease detectives.” The first clue came from interviewing family members of those who were sick. “The one thing that kept coming up is that many of them were active, and spent a lot of time outside,” says Muray. From there, and through home visits, a CDC entomologist narrowed the potential sources down to Culex mosquitoes. More false leads and confusing test results finally gave way to a West Nile virus identification, after birds in the Bronx Zoo also began to fall ill with encephalitis. In total, the investigation took about three weeks, says Murray.
Though the initial mystery was resolved relatively quickly (“especially for 1999,” notes Murray), uncertainties surrounding West Nile have lingered. When and where the worst outbreaks will occur remains unpredictable. Exactly why some people have no symptoms, while other infections prove deadly is unclear. There’s still no available vaccine or proven treatment.
It’s been 25 years since the mosquito borne virus was first found in the U.S.. In that quarter century, the disease has spread from New York City across all 48 contiguous states. “It’s everywhere–all over the map, literally,” says Murray. “There is no place in the [lower 48] where you can really hide from this pathogen.” Each year, 2024 included, West Nile virus cases are reported, with a peak between late July and October. Here’s what to know as this year’s season unfolds, what we still don’t know, and how experts recommend you protect yourself.
How does West Nile virus spread?
Birds are the primary host and reservoir for West Nile virus. The pathogen is mainly passed from host to host via mosquito bites. Culex mosquitos, a genus found worldwide and especially common in major cities, are the primary vector, transmitting the virus between birds or from birds to humans or horses. People and other mammals infected with the illness don’t produce a high enough concentration of viral particles to act as a reservoir and subsequently infect additional mosquitos. “Humans are what we call a dead end host,” says Gonzalo Vazquez-Propkopec, a disease ecologist and professor of environmental science at Emory University. Only a small proportion of cases are transferred between humans through blood transfusions and organ transplants.
Yet though we can’t generally pass the virus on to each other, mosquitos do plenty of work to spread it themselves. “It’s the most widespread viral vector borne disease in the United States, without a doubt,” says Murray. “It far surpasses any other.” Other non-viral vector-borne illnesses, like tick-borne Lyme’s disease, may affect more people each year. But Lyme is a bacterial disease with an effective antibiotic treatment. There is no approved therapeutic for treating West Nile.
Is 2024 a bad year for West Nile?
The CDC tracks West Nile cases, along with other arthropod-borne illnesses, through ArboNET. As of August 13, the federal agency has confirmed 174 West Nile cases in 30 different states, with double digit numbers in Texas, Louisiana, Nebraska, Nevada, and Arizona. Of these, 113 have been “neuroinvasive,” or the more severe variant of infection that causes neurological symptoms like encephalitis (brain swelling), or meningitis, which is swelling of the membrane surrounding the brain. So far, eight of those reported cases have proved deadly.
If you look at past years’ West Nile case numbers, fewer than 200 cases nationwide may not sound like much. However, it’s relatively early in the season and each confirmed case at this point likely represents many more hidden ones, says Murray.
In general, cases are vastly underreported because many cases are asymptomatic and many symptomatic infections are mild and difficult to distinguish from other viral infections, she explains. Fever, a rash on the torso, fatigue, aches, and malaise are how the majority of symptomatic West Nile cases present. Often, those infected don’t seek any treatment or testing. A small proportion of infections, less than one percent, turn more serious, affecting the brain and nervous system and becoming “neuroinvasive.” These cases can be life threatening. Survivors of neuroinvasive illness often end up with lifelong disabilities, says Kiran Thakur, a neurology professor at Columbia University who studies neuroinfectious disease.
Yet even those severe cases are undercounted because providers don’t always test and tests don’t always come back positive, she says. In 2022, 827 confirmed neuroinvasive cases were reported to the CDC, but the agency estimates that between 24,810 and 57,890 neuroinvasive infections occurred. Up to 15 percent of neuroinvasive cases are estimated to be fatal, notes Thakur.
Delays in testing and reporting also mean that it takes time for the CDC to learn about a confirmed case. “There’s a lag in reporting cases, typically by about two weeks,” Murray says, and we’re just getting into the peak transmission time now.
Given those caveats, “we are seeing a few more cases than we [usually] would at this time of year, and some earlier cases,” says Erin Staples, a physician and medical epidemiologist with CDC’s Division of Vector-Borne Diseases. The biggest wave of illness onset tends to come at the end of August and beginning of September, Staples says.
However, that doesn’t mean we’re guaranteed to have a terrible West Nile season nationwide. Predicting how this year’s season will progress over the next couple of months “is very difficult,” Staples tells Popular Science. Trends can shift rapidly and lots of variables contribute to an outbreak’s severity.
Year-to-year, West Nile levels and epicenters vary a lot. The virus may spike in the Northeast one season and then the Southwest the next. In 2003, there was a major outbreak, another came in 2012. As a result, experts consider it “cyclic”, peaking in waves that come about once a decade, says Vazquez-Prokopec. “It seems, roughly, that we’re due for another spike,” he adds.
Climate and rainfall are important. Warm temperatures and the right level of moisture can contribute to a mosquito boom. Bird immunity levels also play a role, he says. If most birds in a region have antibodies and are avoiding illness in a given year, then there will also be fewer human cases, as the reservoir is smaller, Vazquez-Prokopec explains. “It’s a very complex cycle,” he adds– which makes accurate forecasting hard.
Regardless of what unfolds in the next couple of months, Staples notes that right now is a critical time to take preventative measures.
How can we manage West Nile virus?
Through surveillance of mosquito populations and birds, cities keep tabs on the viral threat year to year. In addition, many municipalities also treat for Culex mosquitos with pesticide sprays dispersed from fogging vehicles and by targeting the aquatic larvae. Mosquitoes need water to breed, so applying insecticide to drainage ditches and catchment basins can help reduce their populations without inadvertently killing beneficial insects like pollinators, says Vazquez-Prokopec.
The CDC is researching preventative vaccines and antiviral treatments (and has been for years), says Staples–though the development process, which requires large scale human trials to prove efficacy, is challenging for such an unpredictable virus. A silver lining of the Covid-19 pandemic is that it made alternate pathways to FDA approval and licensure clearer, she adds.
But in the meantime, without a vaccine or medication to rely on, iIndividual people can mitigate their own risk by eliminating sources of standing moisture around their homes (ex: emptying buckets and kiddie pools). Then, there’s behavioral interventions.
“We have to exercise–not panic, but caution,” says Vazquez-Prokopec. Mosquitoes are more than a nuisance, they’re a public health problem, he says. So, he advises that people take earnest steps to avoid bites.
Insect repellents, specifically ones registered with the Environmental Protection Agency and recommended by the CDC, are a critical tool. Wearing loose fitting long sleeve shirts and pants helps to prevent bites as well. And people should be particularly mindful when going out around dusk and dawn when mosquitoes are most active. “I have a can of repellent by my front door and another by my back door, so I remember to [apply] before I walk outside,” says Staples.
It’s still not completely understood why some people become very sick while others have asymptomatic infections. However, some trends are clear and certain groups are known to be more vulnerable to severe West Nile virus. People who are immunocompromised, including those who take medications for autoimmune diseases, should be more vigilant, says Staples. People over the age of 50 are also at higher risk, says Murray. Severe neuroinvasive illness is more commonly reported among men, though that could be because men share a higher level of other risk factors, like working outdoors or comorbidities such as diabetes, notes Thakur. And ultimately, anyone can end up with a severe case.
West Nile virus may be benign for most people, and the worst consequences may be rare, but preventative steps are simple and accessible. When the stakes are so high, it’s best to take the risk seriously, says Thakur. Plus, the same strategies for avoiding West Nile will also help to minimize exposure to other vector borne diseases like Dengue or Powassan, Staples adds. ” “Another great reason to use your repellent,” she says.
Getting in the habit now will be good practice for our warming future, where we’ll all want to take biting bugs more seriously. Under climate change, mosquito seasons are likely to grow longer, and vector–borne illnesses, including West Nile, are set to spread into new regions where people have no prior exposure or immunity. As global warming progresses, “it’s a disease category I worry about a lot,” says Thakur.
Hi, folks! Long time lurker, but now I decided to share a bit more about what I'm trying to do and ask some questions 😅 I want to create a budget sports camera that has a good enough quality for me to run some machine learning algorithms on the footage later on. It needs to be portable, battery powered, and weather resistant (although this part can wait). Instead of trying to create something from scratch, I wanna validate the idea first by using off-the-shelf, commercial products. If it works,
Hi, folks! Long time lurker, but now I decided to share a bit more about what I'm trying to do and ask some questions 😅
I want to create a budget sports camera that has a good enough quality for me to run some machine learning algorithms on the footage later on. It needs to be portable, battery powered, and weather resistant (although this part can wait).
Since the camera provides a RTSP feed, my idea is to basically use a raspberry pi (zero, 3, 4, 5 - I don't know yet) to read the feed and save the files in the SD card (say, every 10min). I tested this with another RTSP-capable camera and it works on my machine, but I don't have any RPIs to test.
So, finally the questions!
Do you think that power bank can provide enough power to the camera and raspberry pi during ~2h? What raspberry pi model would work best for this? It'll mainly be 2h of writing files in the sd card (rtsp >> ffmpeg >> sd card) Is there anything that I might not be considering for a setup like this? Thanks!
Hey guys I want to update my 2002 RTI pop up navigation system with a CarPlay based on raspberry pi. The hardware is done the screen is changed and the pi 4 is build. I wanted to use OpenAuto Pro but it seems like the page is now longer existing ist their an alternative for apple car play? submitted by /u/TjayFL to r/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS [link] [comments]
Hey guys I want to update my 2002 RTI pop up navigation system with a CarPlay based on raspberry pi. The hardware is done the screen is changed and the pi 4 is build. I wanted to use OpenAuto Pro but it seems like the page is now longer existing ist their an alternative for apple car play?
Hi everyone, I'm working on a small project with a Raspberry Pi. Recently, I've been traveling a lot and I’m not often at home near my NAS to manage and access my downloads. So, I decided to revive a Raspberry Pi 4 Model B that was lying around in a drawer. What I love about this setup is that the Raspberry Pi 4 is small and portable, so I can take it with me anywhere I go, making it the perfect companion for managing my downloads on the move. I've installed Raspberry Pi OS Lite, qBittorrent, Ar
I'm working on a small project with a Raspberry Pi. Recently, I've been traveling a lot and I’m not often at home near my NAS to manage and access my downloads. So, I decided to revive a Raspberry Pi 4 Model B that was lying around in a drawer. What I love about this setup is that the Raspberry Pi 4 is small and portable, so I can take it with me anywhere I go, making it the perfect companion for managing my downloads on the move.
I've installed Raspberry Pi OS Lite, qBittorrent, Aria2, and AriaNg for the WebUI. I also connected an SSD optimized for downloads and set up Samba for file sharing.
I've ordered a 3.5" touchscreen (480x320) that I plan to configure as a control center to monitor various aspects of my Raspberry Pi, such as the IP address, and to handle basic configurations like Wi-Fi and Bluetooth with an on-screen keyboard for text input. The goal is to be able to configure my Raspberry Pi without needing to SSH into it.
I’ll keep you updated on the progress of my little project and will post an update as soon as I receive my screen and have everything set up. If anyone is interested, I can also do a detailed tutorial on how to replicate this setup :)
My goal is to control the speed of a 12V 0.24A 120mm 2 wire pc fan. After googling PWM seemed like a valid approach. I used an nchannel mosfet (LR7843) to turn the 3.3V raspberry pi PWM signal into a 12V signal and wired the fan accordingly. https://preview.redd.it/4tzi3biunfjd1.png?width=688&format=png&auto=webp&s=09ae95515e84788ae8e7b45c170affc3b92d59be Now this worked perfectly fine with one fan I have but a newer fan did not respond as expected. After some more googeling I found
My goal is to control the speed of a 12V 0.24A 120mm 2 wire pc fan.
After googling PWM seemed like a valid approach. I used an nchannel mosfet (LR7843) to turn the 3.3V raspberry pi PWM signal into a 12V signal and wired the fan accordingly.
Now this worked perfectly fine with one fan I have but a newer fan did not respond as expected. After some more googeling I found out that most 2 wire brushless pc fans should not be controlled via a pwm signal but an analog signal.
Using a potentiometer I can vary the speed as desired on both fans. Now I would like to vary the speed via software.
This is where I'm currently stuck at. How do I turn my 12V PWM signal into an analog signal?
I have the gameboy style GPI case with retropie its all running but i had to take the pi out and hook it to the tv with a keyboard so i could put in my current ip address and wifi password but im not getting display on the tv i know my hdmi adapter is good because i tried my raspian card and it booted and i know all the connections are right, I'm hoping someone can give me a easy solution and that I'm just overthinking it making it seem harder to fix than it is submitted by /u/Significant_
I have the gameboy style GPI case with retropie its all running but i had to take the pi out and hook it to the tv with a keyboard so i could put in my current ip address and wifi password but im not getting display on the tv i know my hdmi adapter is good because i tried my raspian card and it booted and i know all the connections are right, I'm hoping someone can give me a easy solution and that I'm just overthinking it making it seem harder to fix than it is
The purpose of this post is to share a tool that enables a Raspberry Pi to automatically connect to WiFi, login with secure credentials, and email its IP address for SSHing. We developed this tool through my academic lab and are sharing it to help others. It’ll even broadcast its own access point network if there are no known WiFi networks in range. It was developed for robotics applications but would work well for any remote deployment use of the RPi (i.e. without a keyboard / monitor). O
The purpose of this post is to share a tool that enables a Raspberry Pi to automatically connect to WiFi, login with secure credentials, and email its IP address for SSHing. We developed this tool through my academic lab and are sharing it to help others. It’ll even broadcast its own access point network if there are no known WiFi networks in range. It was developed for robotics applications but would work well for any remote deployment use of the RPi (i.e. without a keyboard / monitor). Once forked, the tool can generate the OS image for an RPi that works out of the box. The image will be an artifact from the build that can be downloaded and flashed.
The documentation describes how to use the tool, but you have to fork the repo, create secrets, and run a workflow from the Actions tab. This will prompt a dialog box where you can enter the specifics of your image (OS, host name, access point SSID, etc).
The tool builds the latest RPi image in the cloud, and enables automatic installation of Python packages. As is, it currently installs packages related to robotics research. The workflow can be customized after forking the repo, if desired.
It works for the RPi 4 and RPi 5, and can support 32 and 64-bit versions of Raspbian. It also enables Ubuntu.
The WiFi utility is able to login with secure credentials via enterprise networks.
The tool is open access, so please share far and wide. This is the result of >1k hours of development from the University of Michigan, funded by the NSF.
I have a Pi zero that I am using to drive an e-ink display as part of a project I am working on (custom e-ink typewriter). I am using a Waveshare display which uses a HAT driver board. The HAT has GPIO jumper cables so jumpers on the power supply would likely be fine, though it'd be a bit messy. I've come across several options: https://www.adafruit.com/product/4114 https://uk.pi-supply.com/collections/pijuice/products/pijuice-zero https://www.waveshare.com/ups-hat-c.htm https://www.tindie.com/p
I have a Pi zero that I am using to drive an e-ink display as part of a project I am working on (custom e-ink typewriter). I am using a Waveshare display which uses a HAT driver board. The HAT has GPIO jumper cables so jumpers on the power supply would likely be fine, though it'd be a bit messy.
But this is outside my realm of knowledge so I don't really know the benefits and drawbacks of each.
Something to note is that the GPIO header on my Pi is a solderless hammer header since I don't know how to solder. Is anyone aware if something like the Pi Sugar would even work with one of those? The headers extend further down below the Pi than a soldered version would.
The only real thing that I want is the ability to easily power on/off the pi once it's in an enclosure and not easily accessible.
This is my first Pi project so please excuse any missing knowledge on my part
i am trying to make a gameboy emulator using retro pi and a pi zero 2 w. for powering the pi itself i have 2 options: 1: a standard tp4056 USB c chrger module. use of this will only allow me to use the pi until it reaches 3.3 v thus leaving unused power left over in the battery. 2 : another type c charger with adjustable voltage(idk what it is called or how it works) Type-C QC AFC PD2.0 PD3.0 to DC Fast Charge Decoy Trigger Support 5V 9V 12V 15V 20V Fixed Voltage Output - Besomi Electronics or
Hi Guys, I've currently got a project where I'm using an RPi to communicate with two Arduinos for I/O. I was going to connect them via the RPi UART pins to the Arduino UART pins (with level shifters), but now I'm wondering is there any benefit to using the UART pins on the RPi, rather than just using the virtual serial port created by the USB? I tried googling, and it looks like either will work, but I couldn't find much else? submitted by /u/DarkYendor to r/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS [
I've currently got a project where I'm using an RPi to communicate with two Arduinos for I/O. I was going to connect them via the RPi UART pins to the Arduino UART pins (with level shifters), but now I'm wondering is there any benefit to using the UART pins on the RPi, rather than just using the virtual serial port created by the USB?
I tried googling, and it looks like either will work, but I couldn't find much else?
Hi everybody, I am planning to build a "cheat sheet display" to place next to my computer monitor. All I need this to do is display whatever URL I need at the moment. All pages will be hosted locally. Perhaps it could also display mpv at times to display the front gate security cam, but that is optional (depending on what pi I'll use and how well resources can handle both at the same time). The pi will be connected to some hdmi monitor or raspberry display (not sure yet). Then, I want to automa
I am planning to build a "cheat sheet display" to place next to my computer monitor.
All I need this to do is display whatever URL I need at the moment. All pages will be hosted locally. Perhaps it could also display mpv at times to display the front gate security cam, but that is optional (depending on what pi I'll use and how well resources can handle both at the same time).
The pi will be connected to some hdmi monitor or raspberry display (not sure yet).
Then, I want to automatically send commands to it from my PC, depending on the cheat sheet. Let's say I'm working with krita, I'd like to press a button on my stream deck that will then send something like ssh <cheatsheetpi> <browser> <url>, so that the pi will display the krita cheat sheet.
I won't have a mouse or keyboard connected, so there doesn't even have to be a fully functioning desktop environment. If I have to do anything, I'll ssh into the device.
The browser needs to display one single page at the time. No tabs, no bookmarks, nothing. Ideally, the browser would be capable of this: either the ssh command should automatically replace the single existing tabs contents, or there should be a parameter to do so (so I won't end up with countless background tabs).
While typing this I realize that I should probably use a touch screen display and not a regular hdmi monitor, so that I could scroll pages with a lot of content.
What desktop environment and browser would you recommend?
I run awesomewm and Firefox on my desktop machine, but the pi monitor won't need tiling. The browser should always be maximized. if I do also implement a temporary mpv popup, that windows should float.
Afaik, Firefox is not able to replace the active tab, but rather will always open a new tab (hopefully I'm wrong, but I couldn't find a parameter for this).
Is there a low resource browser that does this by default? No tabs, only one maximized browser windows at all times, replacing the existing tab with the new url?
Hey! Complete beginner here. I've had a raspberry PI 5 for a few months but just for selenium automation, I know nothing about hardware. I want to make an automated plant watering system for my grandma who forgets to water her plants very often! The idea is to have a moisture monitor, and when it goes down too low, a water pump will activate and water the plants. I can deffo do all the code for it, but the hardware confuses me... Does my basket look good? Do I need anything else? And below
Hey! Complete beginner here. I've had a raspberry PI 5 for a few months but just for selenium automation, I know nothing about hardware.
I want to make an automated plant watering system for my grandma who forgets to water her plants very often!
The idea is to have a moisture monitor, and when it goes down too low, a water pump will activate and water the plants. I can deffo do all the code for it, but the hardware confuses me...
Does my basket look good? Do I need anything else? And below the pictures I tried to explain everything, but maybe I'm missing something?
Here is the way I understand it, am I wrong anywhere? Thank you!!!!
Raspberry Pi Zero WH: The central processing unit, controlling all other components. Connects directly to the Zero Relay Board via its 40-pin GPIO header.
Zero Relay: 2-Channel 5V Relay Board: Controls the DC water pump by acting as a switch. Turns the pump on or off based on signals from the Raspberry Pi. Plugs into the Raspberry Pi's GPIO header.
Extra-Tall Push-Fit Stacking GPIO Header: For clearance above relay board to prevent interference when stacking the Anavi Gardening uHAT. Plugs into the GPIO header on the relay board.
Anavi Gardening uHAT: Monitors soil moisture and controls the relay board based on sensor data. Stacks on top of the extra-tall header.
DC Water Pump: Pumps water to plants based on the relay’s activation. Connects to the Female DC Power Adapter.
Female DC Power Adapter: Interfaces the DC water pump with the relay. The adapter’s positive terminal connects to the NO terminal on the relay, and the negative terminal connects to the power supply.
3-12V Universal Power Supply: Powers the DC water pump. Positive connects to the COM terminal on the relay, and negative connects to the pump’s negative terminal.
Argon ONE Raspberry Pi 4 UK Power Supply: Provides stable power to the Raspberry Pi. Connects to the Raspberry Pi’s micro-USB power port.
RPi Jumper Wires: For connecting the GPIO pins on the Raspberry to the relay board and other components as needed.
so i have a raspberry pi 4 and i wanted to install opencv 4.6.0.66 version but the OS that i have with my raspberry pi comes with python 3.9.8 so i am thinking if i should make python 3.9.8 my default or i should just make it my virtual environment i need python for future stuff but it looks like to much work which one would you guys recommend i am on the 64 bit bullseye operating system and also i have no idea how to make a virtual environment or make python 3.9.8 my default submitted by
so i have a raspberry pi 4 and i wanted to install opencv 4.6.0.66 version but the OS that i have with my raspberry pi comes with python 3.9.8 so i am thinking if i should make python 3.9.8 my default or i should just make it my virtual environment i need python for future stuff but it looks like to much work which one would you guys recommend i am on the 64 bit bullseye operating system and also i have no idea how to make a virtual environment or make python 3.9.8 my default
Should this circuit to add a battery to this RPI and make it rechargable + be able to transfer data with a single USB-C port work? submitted by /u/SadFrax to r/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS [link] [comments]
I am trying to build a project for a remote area that uses multiple raspberry pi's to collect data and report it back to a server. I was thinking of using batman-adv to build a mesh network and then have one of them use a cellular modem as a gateway. I have been following this guide and have 2 pi's setup (using ethernet for gateway to test) and apparently both are on the mesh network (see below). Testing: When I run ifconfig I get this (I took out lo): edge@edgeunit1:~ $ sudo ifconfig bat0: fla
I am trying to build a project for a remote area that uses multiple raspberry pi's to collect data and report it back to a server. I was thinking of using batman-adv to build a mesh network and then have one of them use a cellular modem as a gateway. I have been following this guide and have 2 pi's setup (using ethernet for gateway to test) and apparently both are on the mesh network (see below).
Testing: When I run ifconfig I get this (I took out lo):
edge@edgeunit1:~ $ sudo batctl ping -c 5 b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53 PING b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53 (b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53) 20(48) bytes of data 20 bytes from b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53 icmp_seq=1 ttl=50 time=7.66 ms 20 bytes from b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53 icmp_seq=2 ttl=50 time=7.60 ms 20 bytes from b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53 icmp_seq=3 ttl=50 time=7.66 ms 20 bytes from b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53 icmp_seq=4 ttl=50 time=7.65 ms 20 bytes from b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53 icmp_seq=5 ttl=50 time=7.82 ms --- b8:27:eb:c8:f6:53 ping statistics --- 5 packets transmitted, 5 received, 0% packet loss rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 7.605/7.676/7.815/0.072 ms
I'm interpreting this as my mesh is up and both are connected.
My question: Does the above output mean the gateway is gatewaying and handing out 192.168.199.* addresses? The pi's are headless and I can't figure out how to ssh into the pi that is not directly connected to my home network over ethernet (unit2). I have it's MAC from above and can ssh into the gateway unit (unit1) over ethernet, how do I ssh into unit2? I'm just trying to figure out if unit2 has access to the internet.
https://preview.redd.it/vwh7016x0vgd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88f869bc63931cda58c827567424cea9726e389a This is my first cyberdeck build. The enclosure is a 26 x 12 x 7 cm new old stock enclosure. The panels that hold the keyboard and monitor are made from FR4 PCBs. Inside, there is a Pi 5 with an active cooler. I also added a Pimorini NVMe base and a 500Gb SSD. I also added a 30mm fan for the enclosure itself. The display is a standard 7" USB powered HDMI display
This is my first cyberdeck build. The enclosure is a 26 x 12 x 7 cm new old stock enclosure. The panels that hold the keyboard and monitor are made from FR4 PCBs. Inside, there is a Pi 5 with an active cooler. I also added a Pimorini NVMe base and a 500Gb SSD. I also added a 30mm fan for the enclosure itself. The display is a standard 7" USB powered HDMI display.
Hello, I want to use Ubuntu Desktop or Server (doesn't really matter which one) on my Raspberry Pi 5 using my NVME 1TB SSD. I have no SD-Card so the way im installing Ubuntu on my RPI is that I plug the USB Stick into my normal Windows PC, then using RPI Imager flash Raspbian (Raspberry PI OS) onto the USB Stick, then plug the stick into RPI and boot up, on the RPI OS go to /boot/firmware/config.txt then add dtparam stuff to enable pci, next open Imager and install Ubuntu os on the ssd. Then jus
I want to use Ubuntu Desktop or Server (doesn't really matter which one) on my Raspberry Pi 5 using my NVME 1TB SSD. I have no SD-Card so the way im installing Ubuntu on my RPI is that I plug the USB Stick into my normal Windows PC, then using RPI Imager flash Raspbian (Raspberry PI OS) onto the USB Stick, then plug the stick into RPI and boot up, on the RPI OS go to /boot/firmware/config.txt then add dtparam stuff to enable pci, next open Imager and install Ubuntu os on the ssd. Then just unplug the usb and reboot, done.
But now I want to add full disk encryption to to that Ubuntu system on the ssd, how can I achieve this?
Hello! I am working on adding an Ambilight system to a TV using a Raspberry Pi 3 B+. I started this project last week, but the RPi 4 I was using at the time got fried due to overvoltage (as some commenters on r/WLED warned me of). Lesson learned, and I pivoted from using a now extra crispy RPi 4 to the Pi 3 B+ you see in the picture. I have some problems with the final pieces of this project, and I was hoping reddit could come to my rescue again. (I will give a detailed description of the
Hello! I am working on adding an Ambilight system to a TV using a Raspberry Pi 3 B+. I started this project last week, but the RPi 4 I was using at the time got fried due to overvoltage (as some commenters on r/WLED warned me of). Lesson learned, and I pivoted from using a now extra crispy RPi 4 to the Pi 3 B+ you see in the picture. I have some problems with the final pieces of this project, and I was hoping reddit could come to my rescue again. (I will give a detailed description of the setup at the end of the post)
I cannot get the lights to do anything when connected to the Pi. I know the lights work, as I have tested both the lights and the harness using a separate Bluetooth controller made by the same company as the light strip. I do not have the backup wire (blue) connected, as it was not necessary to run the lights with the Bluetooth controller. The DAT wire (green) is connected to the GPIO18 pinout on the Pi, and I am confident the crimped connectors used are not the problem. I have also added a common ground between the lights and the Pi (white). Basically, I have narrowed it down to either a software issue (No doubt my fault) or an issue between the pinout and the connector. I am already out of my depth regarding this project and am hesitant to continue trying things on a whim (See burnt RPi 4). I will happily share screenshots of my HyperHDR settings if needed.
For my set-up, I have a Raspberry Pi 3 model B+, powered by a 5V 3A PSU coming from the top of the picture, and plugged into the USB Micro adaptor on the Pi (HyperHDR warns me the Pi isn’t being supplied with enough voltage, but I do not have another solution for power on hand. Suggestions are welcome). The Pi is running HyperHDR 20.0.0.0 and does not seem to have any issues doing so. Entering the Pi from the left side of the screen is the HDMI cable, which then runs into and HDMI to USB type-A Video Capture, which is then connected to the Pi. On the right side of the screen is a 12V 15A power supply wired to the harness connected directly to the lights. The white cable running directly from the lights to the Pi is the common ground connected to a ground pinout on the Pi. The green wire leading from the harness to the Pi is the DAT wire connected to the GPIO18 pinout. The blue wire is the backup wire. This backup wire does not need to be connected to the first-party controller for the LED strip to work, so I assume it does not need to be connected to the Pi. I have run several tests with this backup wire and the DAT wire connected to the GPIO18 pinout using a 1 to 2 terminal block, but nothing has changed.
As I said, I am way out of my comfort zone with this project, and as such I am open to any and all constructive feedback and will be as responsive as possible. I appreciate any help you can provide. If and when I finish this project, I will be sure to post the results!
Initial buzz about Grounded was minimal; just an inkling that something fresh might emerge in gaming. Yet its sudden explosion into mainstream consciousness proved otherwise; mesmerizing millions with its blend of survival, exploration, and crafting gameplay. Obsidian Entertainment seems to have created some form of magical shrinking potion that allows us to experience life from an ant's point of view! Grounded was an unexpected sensation that captured everyone's interest surprisingly early. A s
Initial buzz about Grounded was minimal; just an inkling that something fresh might emerge in gaming. Yet its sudden explosion into mainstream consciousness proved otherwise; mesmerizing millions with its blend of survival, exploration, and crafting gameplay. Obsidian Entertainment seems to have created some form of magical shrinking potion that allows us to experience life from an ant's point of view! Grounded was an unexpected sensation that captured everyone's interest surprisingly early. A stealthy title that initially managed to stay under the radar before blossoming into something amazing and inspiring players around the globe; suddenly everyone was talking about survival in backyard environments!
Crafting Depth, Overcoming Challenges...
I have spent endless hours wandering among towering blades of grass, building intricate fortresses, and fighting massive insects that would send any arachnophobe shrieking with fear. It is an extraordinary world with beauty as well as fear; every dewdrop could provide life support while spiders could pose grave threats; its ability to transform everyday things into extraordinary experiences is truly astounding. Far from me to recommend to those who buy PS5 games a title that I did not finish and totally enjoyed it. Grounded may contain quirks - software bugs not of the garden variety - which are sometimes annoying, yet these issues are easily overlooked given its sheer joy of discovery. Every corner offers new challenges; discovering an underground cavern or crafting a powerful weapon are always exciting experiences in Grounded!
Stealth and Survival Mechanics
Survival mechanics in Antsy are deceptively deep for such an apparently straightforward premise, from gathering resources, crafting tools, and building your base to exploring your surroundings and fortifying against monstrous insects lurking behind every corner. I spent hours fortifying my base only for it to become overrun with angry ants; an experience both thrilling and frightening at once! A game about being shrunk down seemed like an odd choice of subject matter; yet once I ventured into that unfamiliar and overgrown world I became fascinated and became fully immersed in its strange beauty, creating an unparalleled feeling of discovery!
An Engaging Experience for Both Beginners and Veterans Alike
Every blade of grass and dewdrop holds something special to reveal; there's great pleasure in exploring this miniature world and piecing together what happened here. Grounded's humor also stands out: from absurdly large bugs to its quirky dialogue, Grounded, among PS5 adventure games, manages to be both frightening and delightful at the same time. Grounded stands as proof of what can be accomplished with fresh perspectives and taking risks; its success speaks for itself and millions are playing this beloved title!
Final Thoughts: Exceed Expectations
Obsidian Entertainment has conjured an immersive universe that is both intimate and massive in scale. A backyard that was once mundane transforms into an expansive wilderness where every dewdrop may become its own lake; every pebble becomes its own formidable mountain; not simply another take on "Honey, I Shrunk the Kids." Obsidian has created something bolder - an immersion into an alienated reality where survival becomes ever-present anxiety. Grounded isn't without its problems; performance issues may hinder gameplay at times and some of the later game content feels thin at times, yet these are minor drawbacks in what otherwise represents an exceptional package.
Vroom vroom. That is the sound of 11 rivals revving their engines as they blink the sweat out of their eyes and exhale years of self-doubt from their lungs. Today is their day. We have lined up these racing games on a starting grid and are interested to see how things shake out. Will the realism-obsessed driving sims take the lead with their sublime physics engines? Might the futuristic combat racers simply destroy the opposition with explosive rockets? Or perhaps a nippy arcade crowd-pleaser w
Vroom vroom. That is the sound of 11 rivals revving their engines as they blink the sweat out of their eyes and exhale years of self-doubt from their lungs. Today is their day. We have lined up these racing games on a starting grid and are interested to see how things shake out. Will the realism-obsessed driving sims take the lead with their sublime physics engines? Might the futuristic combat racers simply destroy the opposition with explosive rockets? Or perhaps a nippy arcade crowd-pleaser will soar to the finish line, propelled by the sound of roaring cheers. It's all to play for here at our incredibly messed-up grand prix with a worrying lack of rules or regulation. Start your engines, everyone, these are the 11 best racing games on PC. 3! 2! 1! ...
Vroom vroom. That is the sound of 11 rivals revving their engines as they blink the sweat out of their eyes and exhale years of self-doubt from their lungs. Today is their day. We have lined up these racing games on a starting grid and are interested to see how things shake out. Will the realism-obsessed driving sims take the lead with their sublime physics engines? Might the futuristic combat racers simply destroy the opposition with explosive rockets? Or perhaps a nippy arcade crowd-pleaser w
Vroom vroom. That is the sound of 11 rivals revving their engines as they blink the sweat out of their eyes and exhale years of self-doubt from their lungs. Today is their day. We have lined up these racing games on a starting grid and are interested to see how things shake out. Will the realism-obsessed driving sims take the lead with their sublime physics engines? Might the futuristic combat racers simply destroy the opposition with explosive rockets? Or perhaps a nippy arcade crowd-pleaser will soar to the finish line, propelled by the sound of roaring cheers. It's all to play for here at our incredibly messed-up grand prix with a worrying lack of rules or regulation. Start your engines, everyone, these are the 11 best racing games on PC. 3! 2! 1! ...
James Gunn’s reboot of the DCU doesn’t start until Superman arrives in 2025, but he said the movie is already done filming to give the teams involved as much time as possible to perfect its finished look, and especially the quality of its VFX. The director’s comments were in response to growing concerns about terrible…Read more...
James Gunn’s reboot of the DCU doesn’t start until Superman arrives in 2025, but he said the movie is already done filming to give the teams involved as much time as possible to perfect its finished look, and especially the quality of its VFX. The director’s comments were in response to growing concerns about terrible…
3D printing ceramics is more accessible than ever, but it still has some quirks. Here's how to get started.
The post 3D Printing Ceramics: Going From the 3D Printer to the Kiln appeared first on Make: DIY Projects and Ideas for Makers.
https://preview.redd.it/vwh7016x0vgd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88f869bc63931cda58c827567424cea9726e389a This is my first cyberdeck build. The enclosure is a 26 x 12 x 7 cm new old stock enclosure. The panels that hold the keyboard and monitor are made from FR4 PCBs. Inside, there is a Pi 5 with an active cooler. I also added a Pimorini NVMe base and a 500Gb SSD. I also added a 30mm fan for the enclosure itself. The display is a standard 7" USB powered HDMI display
This is my first cyberdeck build. The enclosure is a 26 x 12 x 7 cm new old stock enclosure. The panels that hold the keyboard and monitor are made from FR4 PCBs. Inside, there is a Pi 5 with an active cooler. I also added a Pimorini NVMe base and a 500Gb SSD. I also added a 30mm fan for the enclosure itself. The display is a standard 7" USB powered HDMI display.
Hello, I want to use Ubuntu Desktop or Server (doesn't really matter which one) on my Raspberry Pi 5 using my NVME 1TB SSD. I have no SD-Card so the way im installing Ubuntu on my RPI is that I plug the USB Stick into my normal Windows PC, then using RPI Imager flash Raspbian (Raspberry PI OS) onto the USB Stick, then plug the stick into RPI and boot up, on the RPI OS go to /boot/firmware/config.txt then add dtparam stuff to enable pci, next open Imager and install Ubuntu os on the ssd. Then jus
I want to use Ubuntu Desktop or Server (doesn't really matter which one) on my Raspberry Pi 5 using my NVME 1TB SSD. I have no SD-Card so the way im installing Ubuntu on my RPI is that I plug the USB Stick into my normal Windows PC, then using RPI Imager flash Raspbian (Raspberry PI OS) onto the USB Stick, then plug the stick into RPI and boot up, on the RPI OS go to /boot/firmware/config.txt then add dtparam stuff to enable pci, next open Imager and install Ubuntu os on the ssd. Then just unplug the usb and reboot, done.
But now I want to add full disk encryption to to that Ubuntu system on the ssd, how can I achieve this?
Hello! I am working on adding an Ambilight system to a TV using a Raspberry Pi 3 B+. I started this project last week, but the RPi 4 I was using at the time got fried due to overvoltage (as some commenters on r/WLED warned me of). Lesson learned, and I pivoted from using a now extra crispy RPi 4 to the Pi 3 B+ you see in the picture. I have some problems with the final pieces of this project, and I was hoping reddit could come to my rescue again. (I will give a detailed description of the
Hello! I am working on adding an Ambilight system to a TV using a Raspberry Pi 3 B+. I started this project last week, but the RPi 4 I was using at the time got fried due to overvoltage (as some commenters on r/WLED warned me of). Lesson learned, and I pivoted from using a now extra crispy RPi 4 to the Pi 3 B+ you see in the picture. I have some problems with the final pieces of this project, and I was hoping reddit could come to my rescue again. (I will give a detailed description of the setup at the end of the post)
I cannot get the lights to do anything when connected to the Pi. I know the lights work, as I have tested both the lights and the harness using a separate Bluetooth controller made by the same company as the light strip. I do not have the backup wire (blue) connected, as it was not necessary to run the lights with the Bluetooth controller. The DAT wire (green) is connected to the GPIO18 pinout on the Pi, and I am confident the crimped connectors used are not the problem. I have also added a common ground between the lights and the Pi (white). Basically, I have narrowed it down to either a software issue (No doubt my fault) or an issue between the pinout and the connector. I am already out of my depth regarding this project and am hesitant to continue trying things on a whim (See burnt RPi 4). I will happily share screenshots of my HyperHDR settings if needed.
For my set-up, I have a Raspberry Pi 3 model B+, powered by a 5V 3A PSU coming from the top of the picture, and plugged into the USB Micro adaptor on the Pi (HyperHDR warns me the Pi isn’t being supplied with enough voltage, but I do not have another solution for power on hand. Suggestions are welcome). The Pi is running HyperHDR 20.0.0.0 and does not seem to have any issues doing so. Entering the Pi from the left side of the screen is the HDMI cable, which then runs into and HDMI to USB type-A Video Capture, which is then connected to the Pi. On the right side of the screen is a 12V 15A power supply wired to the harness connected directly to the lights. The white cable running directly from the lights to the Pi is the common ground connected to a ground pinout on the Pi. The green wire leading from the harness to the Pi is the DAT wire connected to the GPIO18 pinout. The blue wire is the backup wire. This backup wire does not need to be connected to the first-party controller for the LED strip to work, so I assume it does not need to be connected to the Pi. I have run several tests with this backup wire and the DAT wire connected to the GPIO18 pinout using a 1 to 2 terminal block, but nothing has changed.
As I said, I am way out of my comfort zone with this project, and as such I am open to any and all constructive feedback and will be as responsive as possible. I appreciate any help you can provide. If and when I finish this project, I will be sure to post the results!
Hello there, I recently bought a RasPI 3.5-inch TTF touch module and am facing issues using it. The module, even after all drivers are installed, does not display any output. The guild on the website also does not go into detail on how to troubleshoot it and I was not able to find any useful info on debugging this issue. I will list out everything I have done until now: - Reinstalled Raspbian Desktop image. - Configured the Xserver to work (even though the driver install script does it). - Trie
Hello there, I recently bought a RasPI 3.5-inch TTF touch module and am facing issues using it. The module, even after all drivers are installed, does not display any output. The guild on the website also does not go into detail on how to troubleshoot it and I was not able to find any useful info on debugging this issue.
I will list out everything I have done until now: - Reinstalled Raspbian Desktop image. - Configured the Xserver to work (even though the driver install script does it). - Tried to manually display an Image (this is interesting and I will further explain this below). - Used Python to try and display an image.
So at first, I thought while installing it, I followed the standard procedure and it did not display anything other than a black screen with an _ in it. next, I tried to delete everything and then reinstalled it, but still no luck. Next, I removed the image and used a fresh image, no use. then I tried using this command: ``` sudo fbi -T 1 -d /dev/fb1 -noverbose -a /home/pi/test_image.png
``` to forcefully display something and when I did this a terminal interface got printed but was not usable, then I figured the framerate was flicked so, I tried changing the refresh rate that also did not work.
Now I am lost on what to do. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
My goal is to use the PWM signal of a raspberry pi to control the speed of a 12V 0,24A DC fan. The drawing below shows how I've wired everything up. https://preview.redd.it/q3hajn2igegd1.png?width=696&format=png&auto=webp&s=b7f9c7a46d9a186b513c4aae2346e2c07711fb6d I purchased a cheap mosfet module off of aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005625110568.html Amazon carries them too: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07HBQZ9BK The module uses a FR120N mosfet. Link to d
I use the pigpio python library to control the duty cycle of the pwm signal at 20kHz. When using a multimeter the readings (RPi PWM - RPi GND) perfectly correspond to the duty cycle I set in the code.
The problem: The voltage readings across the fan do not match the duty cycle at all.
At 50% duty cycle I would expect 6V but I get almost the max voltage already. (See table below)
Hi, for a project I bought a 2.8inch DPI LCD and WM8960 Audio HAT both from Waveshare. Since the audio hat has GPIO extension I thought it would it be possible to stack one on top of the other. THe idea is to give "comact" audio and video output to a Raspberry Pi Zero, as much pankake as possible with no wires going around. For speaker I'm using 2w 28 mm speakers, no need for hd audio. Well, I followed the intsructuon to edit the config.txt and add the overlays for the LCD and all went ok, once
for a project I bought a 2.8inch DPI LCD and WM8960 Audio HAT both from Waveshare. Since the audio hat has GPIO extension I thought it would it be possible to stack one on top of the other. THe idea is to give "comact" audio and video output to a Raspberry Pi Zero, as much pankake as possible with no wires going around. For speaker I'm using 2w 28 mm speakers, no need for hd audio.
Well, I followed the intsructuon to edit the config.txt and add the overlays for the LCD and all went ok, once I understood that the drivers works only with Legacy 32 full image. Then I installed the audio drivers and the display stopped working. I uninstalled the audio drivers and checked the config.txt file were clean and the display worked again.
Is there a way to make this happen? Can you suggest another compact way of bringing audio out for the rpi? Maybe by using a usb board, taking data and power from the testing pads?
Hi everyone, I’m working on my first Raspberry Pi project and could use some guidance. I’m building a theremin-like digital instrument using two SHARP GP2Y0A51SK0F IR sensors. Each sensor is supposed to trigger one of five audio clips based on distance. Here’s what I’ve done so far: I’ve set distance thresholds for each audio clip (e.g., 14-15cm triggers Clip 1, 11-13cm triggers Clip 2, etc.). I’ve written code to handle sensor input and play the clips accordingly. However, I’m encountering a
I’m working on my first Raspberry Pi project and could use some guidance. I’m building a theremin-like digital instrument using two SHARP GP2Y0A51SK0F IR sensors. Each sensor is supposed to trigger one of five audio clips based on distance.
Here’s what I’ve done so far:
I’ve set distance thresholds for each audio clip (e.g., 14-15cm triggers Clip 1, 11-13cm triggers Clip 2, etc.).
I’ve written code to handle sensor input and play the clips accordingly.
However, I’m encountering a few issues:
Erratic Playback: The audio clips play erratically and seem to be cut off at the low and high ends of the distance range.
Persistent Playback: When no object is in front of the sensors, one clip plays continuously until something comes into range.
I’m wondering if:
There might be improvements or adjustments I can make in the code to address these issues.
The IR sensors might not be ideal for this application, and if alternatives like ultrasonic or Time-of-Flight sensors could be better (ideally want to solve with coding before buying new hardware)
Here’s my code for reference:
import RPi.GPIO as GPIO import time import spidev from subprocess import call import threading import statistics # Setup SPI spi = spidev.SpiDev() spi.open(0, 0) spi.max_speed_hz = 1350000 # MCP3008 channel configuration sensor1_channel = 0 sensor2_channel = 1 # Distance to audio mapping with updated intervals distance_ranges = [(14, 15), (11, 13), (8, 10), (5, 7), (2, 4)] audio_files_sensor1 = [f"/home/jss/audio_clips/s1_clip{i+1}.m4a" for i in range(len(distance_ranges))] audio_files_sensor2 = [f"/home/jss/audio_clips/s2_clip{i+1}.m4a" for i in range(len(distance_ranges))] # Smoothing parameters smoothing_window_size = 5 sensor1_data = [] sensor2_data = [] def read_adc(channel): adc = spi.xfer2([1, (8 + channel) << 4, 0]) data = ((adc[1] & 3) << 8) + adc[2] return data def get_distance(sensor_channel, sensor_data): adc_value = read_adc(sensor_channel) distance = (adc_value * 3.3 / 1024) * 30 # Smoothing the distance using a simple moving average sensor_data.append(distance) if len(sensor_data) > smoothing_window_size: sensor_data.pop(0) smoothed_distance = statistics.mean(sensor_data) print(f"Smoothed distance from sensor {sensor_channel}: {smoothed_distance}") # Debugging return smoothed_distance def play_audio(file): try: print(f"Playing audio file: {file}") # Debugging call(["mpv", file]) except Exception as e: print(f"Error playing audio file: {file}. Error: {e}") def handle_sensor(sensor_channel, audio_files, sensor_data): last_played_index = -1 while True: distance = get_distance(sensor_channel, sensor_data) for i, (low, high) in enumerate(distance_ranges): if low <= distance <= high: if i != last_played_index: play_audio(audio_files[i]) last_played_index = i break time.sleep(0.1) def main(): print("Script started...") # Debugging # Create and start threads for each sensor sensor1_thread = threading.Thread(target=handle_sensor, args=(sensor1_channel, audio_files_sensor1, sensor1_data)) sensor2_thread = threading.Thread(target=handle_sensor, args=(sensor2_channel, audio_files_sensor2, sensor2_data)) sensor1_thread.start() sensor2_thread.start() # Wait for both threads to finish (they won't in this case) sensor1_thread.join() sensor2_thread.join() if __name__ == "__main__": main()import RPi.GPIO as GPIO import time import spidev from subprocess import call import threading import statistics # Setup SPI spi = spidev.SpiDev() spi.open(0, 0) spi.max_speed_hz = 1350000 # MCP3008 channel configuration sensor1_channel = 0 sensor2_channel = 1 # Distance to audio mapping with updated intervals distance_ranges = [(14, 15), (11, 13), (8, 10), (5, 7), (2, 4)] audio_files_sensor1 = [f"/home/jss/audio_clips/s1_clip{i+1}.m4a" for i in range(len(distance_ranges))] audio_files_sensor2 = [f"/home/jss/audio_clips/s2_clip{i+1}.m4a" for i in range(len(distance_ranges))] # Smoothing parameters smoothing_window_size = 5 sensor1_data = [] sensor2_data = [] def read_adc(channel): adc = spi.xfer2([1, (8 + channel) << 4, 0]) data = ((adc[1] & 3) << 8) + adc[2] return data def get_distance(sensor_channel, sensor_data): adc_value = read_adc(sensor_channel) distance = (adc_value * 3.3 / 1024) * 30 # Smoothing the distance using a simple moving average sensor_data.append(distance) if len(sensor_data) > smoothing_window_size: sensor_data.pop(0) smoothed_distance = statistics.mean(sensor_data) print(f"Smoothed distance from sensor {sensor_channel}: {smoothed_distance}") # Debugging return smoothed_distance def play_audio(file): try: print(f"Playing audio file: {file}") # Debugging call(["mpv", file]) except Exception as e: print(f"Error playing audio file: {file}. Error: {e}") def handle_sensor(sensor_channel, audio_files, sensor_data): last_played_index = -1 while True: distance = get_distance(sensor_channel, sensor_data) for i, (low, high) in enumerate(distance_ranges): if low <= distance <= high: if i != last_played_index: play_audio(audio_files[i]) last_played_index = i break time.sleep(0.1) def main(): print("Script started...") # Debugging # Create and start threads for each sensor sensor1_thread = threading.Thread(target=handle_sensor, args=(sensor1_channel, audio_files_sensor1, sensor1_data)) sensor2_thread = threading.Thread(target=handle_sensor, args=(sensor2_channel, audio_files_sensor2, sensor2_data)) sensor1_thread.start() sensor2_thread.start() # Wait for both threads to finish (they won't in this case) sensor1_thread.join() sensor2_thread.join() if __name__ == "__main__": main()
So i got sick of the spotify shuffle bcoz it was not playing the old songs in my playlist. So i made python telegram bot to shuffle the playlist and also it can update a playlist with the songs from shazam and liked songs. It basically collects the uri id of songs from liked,main playlist and shazam and builds a database. From that can easily add or rearrange songs in the playlist. Now I'm really up for saving money for a decent pi 4/5 in future😙. https://github.com/jidukrishna/spotify_upd
So i got sick of the spotify shuffle bcoz it was not playing the old songs in my playlist. So i made python telegram bot to shuffle the playlist and also it can update a playlist with the songs from shazam and liked songs. It basically collects the uri id of songs from liked,main playlist and shazam and builds a database. From that can easily add or rearrange songs in the playlist. Now I'm really up for saving money for a decent pi 4/5 in future😙. https://github.com/jidukrishna/spotify_updater
Ive seen the clock work u console around and wanted something a bit more utilitarian, as well as being upgradeable. It doesn't look nearly as nice but it serves my purpose and hopefully inspires someone else to build something even better submitted by /u/AsuraZero to r/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS [link] [comments]
Ive seen the clock work u console around and wanted something a bit more utilitarian, as well as being upgradeable. It doesn't look nearly as nice but it serves my purpose and hopefully inspires someone else to build something even better
Finally been cleaning up the wires and doing some fine tuning on smoothing out the arms. Unfortunately I’m pretty sure he pulled out one of the grounds (my fault ) at the end of this dance. It started doing that pulsing thing it does when a ground is lose. So another takedown and redo is in order. 🤦♂️😂. Still pretty happy with it tho. submitted by /u/TheRealFanger to r/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS [link] [comments]
Finally been cleaning up the wires and doing some fine tuning on smoothing out the arms. Unfortunately I’m pretty sure he pulled out one of the grounds (my fault ) at the end of this dance. It started doing that pulsing thing it does when a ground is lose. So another takedown and redo is in order. 🤦♂️😂. Still pretty happy with it tho.
I am new to the Pi community and my head is spinning from learning all about GPIO pins, voltages, and communication protocols. Though it has been fun learning all these new concepts. I am struggling to properly connect a bidirectional data wire from an external machine [coin hopper] to my Raspberry Pi 5. When I use my Pi to send a request to the hopper, I get no response. I'm not sure if I am setting up this data wire correctly, so I would love insights from the community. High-level Proje
I am new to the Pi community and my head is spinning from learning all about GPIO pins, voltages, and communication protocols. Though it has been fun learning all these new concepts.
I am struggling to properly connect a bidirectional data wire from an external machine [coin hopper] to my Raspberry Pi 5. When I use my Pi to send a request to the hopper, I get no response. I'm not sure if I am setting up this data wire correctly, so I would love insights from the community.
High-level Project Details and Objective
My project is an automated coin identifier & sorter. I am using a Raspberry Pi 5
Here is a video of the most recent project prototype [coin hopper has not been added to the system yet]
Have the Pi be able to transmit data to & receive data from a coin hopper
I am using Python
The coin hopper uses the ccTalk & UART serial interface protocol
Avoid frying my coin hopper and Pi
I am using a 16-gauge solid core copper wire [insulated] for the power supply and data wire
Details
I am trying to connect a Coin Hopper [Money Controls SCH 2 model] to my Pi 5. The SCH2 uses a 10-pin Moxel connection scheme and uses a bi-directional serial data line.
I am using a female terminal connector adapter to connect the 24v wire and ground wire from the coin hopper directly to the power supply. [Pins 4 & 6 on the hopper]
I read that since the coin hopper uses 24v, it could damage the Pi 5 as the Pi operates at 3.3v logic level. Even though the only connection from the coin hopper to the Pi is with the bi-directional data line. As such, I am using a 3.3V/5V to 3.6V/24V 4 Channel Voltage Converter Optocoupler board. The board is NOT bi-directional.
Pi5 GPIO structure does not allow for bi-directional data communication. As such I need to use my GPIO extension board which has a TXD [Transmit] and RXD [Receive] port. I can not connect the coin hopper's bi-directional data wire solely to the TXD or RXD port and expect bi-directional communication
Since the coin hopper operates at 24v, I assume it uses 24v logic level. As such, a voltage converter is needed. Though, I am unsure why as I would think a data wire is not powering anything, just sending data and thus very low voltage.
The ground wire from the coin hopper [Pin 6] should connect to the ground socket on the power supply female terminal.
Outstanding Questions
What do I need to consider to connect the coin hopper's bi-directional data wire to the Pi? Am I missing a key part/board?
Do I need to use the UART serial protocol? Is there a better alternative that will still work with the coin hopper?
Do I need a GPIO extension board? If so, is my current extension board appropriate?
Do I need a voltage converter board? If so, is my current converter board appropriate? Do I need to get a bi-directional converter board? [My current one is not bi-directional]
Should the ground wire from the coin hopper [Pin 6] connect to the ground socket on the power supply? Or should the ground wire from the coin hopper [Pin 6] connect to the ground socket on the GPIO extension board on the Pi?
Does it matter if my wires are solid or stranded copper?
This has been a confusing journey but I'm excited to get the coin hopper up and running. The idea is to automate my coin sorter so that I don't have to place a coin manually each time. The Pi will communicate with the hopper to queue up the next coin after a coin has gone through the sorter.
Edit: Clarification on what I have already done and tested
I have already attached the GPIO extension board and voltage convertor to the Pi
On the voltage convertor there, on the left side in the picture, are ports indicating Input & Ground. On the right side is Voltage Output and Ground. I connected a 22-gauge wire from IN1 [Input 1] to the GPIO extension board [TXD]. I also connected the wire from the input ground port to the ground port on the GPIO extension board [next to the TXD port.
I am trying to send a command from the Pi through to the GPIO extension board. That data then goes through the extension board to the data cable wire to the coin hopper.
However, the coin hopper does not send a response back confirming communication.
Below is what I have done to troubleshoot:
Testing Communication Protocols:
Verified ccTalk protocol uses UART for serial communication.
Ensured the correct baud rate (9600 8N1) for ccTalk messages.
Enabled the Pi serial port and confirmed the correct serial is online and avaliable
Software and Library Installations:
Installed and configured pyserial for serial communication.
Hello all! I'm new to the Raspberry Pi scene; however, I have recently found my interest piqued by the tinkering possibilities of the Raspberry Pi. I am currently in the process of creating a NAS server that will be primarily used to maintain a photo library to offload from my phones. I am looking for suggestions, feedback, and any remarks on my build. The build will be as follows: - Raspberry Pi 5 - Argon Neo case with NVME support - 64GB Micro SD to download Pi OS Lite and Open Media Vault - 1
Hello all! I'm new to the Raspberry Pi scene; however, I have recently found my interest piqued by the tinkering possibilities of the Raspberry Pi. I am currently in the process of creating a NAS server that will be primarily used to maintain a photo library to offload from my phones. I am looking for suggestions, feedback, and any remarks on my build. The build will be as follows: - Raspberry Pi 5 - Argon Neo case with NVME support - 64GB Micro SD to download Pi OS Lite and Open Media Vault - 1 TB Crucial NVME
Additionally, I am also planning on buying a Black Shark phone cooler that I will stick above the Argon Neo's aluminum case with the theory that it will cool the metal down, which will cool the air within the case down, and therefore the fan's in the case will be circulating cold air to the Raspberry Pi.
I understand some of you might be asking me why I am not running RAID and multiple bays. Well, I don't want to increase the budget of this build anymore. It was supposed to be USD 250, and I'm already at USD 260.
Přihlásit se
![[link]](https://i.redd.it/cakr8axul2jd1.jpeg){kind=link}
![[link]](https://i.redd.it/6ej4k8l4khhd1.png){kind=link}
![[link]](https://i.redd.it/r9ynlqd2wugd1.gif){kind=link}
![[link]](https://i.redd.it/iot7wo1bu7gd1.jpeg){kind=link}
![[link]](https://i.redd.it/9ifcc9u8cnfd1.jpeg){kind=link}
![[link]](https://i.redd.it/admvv2sygffd1.png){kind=link}
